Aframe Carport 1A-Frame, vertical roof carports are the carport of choice. The recommended vertical roof is stronger because it is constructed with additional hatch channels in the rafters. Also, a vertical roof is constructed so the ribs of the roof panels run with the slope of the roof, allowing water, snow, and debris to run off with ease. Both 12 and 14 gauge framing are available on the A-Frame vertical roof carports.

A-Frame Verticle Roof Carport
A-Frame Verticle Roof Carport

A-Frame carports are stronger than Regular style carports and vertical roofs are much stronger that horizontal roofs, so one knows the a-frame vertical roof carports are the strongest. When upgraded to the 12 gauge steel, the a-frame vertical carport is the sturdiest basic carport we offer. Options like extra braces, extra bows, and more powerful anchors can make you’re a-frame vertical carport stand up to just about anything.

Certify an a-frame vertical carport to make sure it meets or exceeds local building codes and regulations. Better Metal Buildings can certify carports to meet wind and snow load requirements almost anywhere. Certifying a carport adds the necessary bows, braces, and requires stronger anchors to meet wind loads of 90+ mph and snow loads starting at 20 and 40 lbs per inch. Higher certification is available, just ask a BetterMetalBuildings representative or Authorized dealer.


Options and Extras – Options that are available for the A-Frame vertical roof carport include gabled ends, extra panels, extra braces, extra bows and legs, height extensions, pitch adjustment (standard pitch is 3/12), concrete anchors, mobile home anchors, optional ground concrete supports, 12 gauge upgrade, certification, roof insulation, and 12 color options.

Clearance – When determining the clearance of an a-frame vertical roof  building you will start with your leg height. The roof has a standard pitch of 3/12, meaning that for every 12 feet of width, the roof will rise 3 feet. To make math easier, that is the same as a ¼ pitch, so for every 4’ over, go up one foot. From the top of the legs to the point at which the roof begins to slop is about six inches on the a-frame carports. To break this down on an example of an 18’ wide a-frame carport with a leg height of 6 foot, you will calculate the clearance as follows: First take the leg height of 6’ and add the 6” to the roof where it starts to slope. Now you’re at 6’6”. Next you will move towards the peak (or center of the building) and count 4 feet in, then move up 1 foot. Now at 4’ inward you have a clearance of 7’6”. Do this until you reach the peak of the building. In this case it is 9’ from a leg to the peak so the rise will be 2’4” plus the original 6” from the leg, plus the leg height. So, in total, the peak will have a clearance of about 8’10”. However, you must take in account for the top brace that will lower your peak by a few inches.

Gabled Ends – Gabled ends are bits of an end that fills the triangular space formed between the tops of the legs and the peak of the building. A gabled end reduces the clearance height but adds more support while making the steel building look more refined. Gabled ends can be added to the front, back or both ends of a metal carport.